Here are some pictures from installment six.

 

 Most of what's covered in this review is my faulty horn fix, a few more access points created, fuse box placement, some tips, some enlightenment and more information altogether.  I'm pushing 1400 miles now and The Fire Drake is running the same, if not better, than ever.

Here's the access hole under the seat that used to lead to nowhere. Now the horn has a relay, dedicated wiring, a separate fuse and the portal now longer leads to nowhere. The relay is directly mounted onto the existing frame screw in the top of the picture. The fuse holder is weather proof  and can be changed in mere seconds.
Here's a bigger picture of the relay itself. I did not ground it at this point, but ran a completely new wire directly to the battery. I wanted this horn to be on a live circuit so I can add an alarm easier and not have to rely on the main wiring harness to do so. 
Here's the diagram of the new horn wiring and corresponding colors, connections and routes that I used. (gray is really the white wire.) This wiring is the boat trailer wiring as mentioned in installment 6.
Here are the pictures of the fuse box  and seat bucket modifications to create a 100% accessible fuse box without even removing a single screw. I can open it with literally one finger. If you look closely, you can see a few failed attempts and probing for the location of where I needed to cut. It's going to be real hard to make an access door since it is cut on contours, but I'm going to try. Meanwhile a nice piece of black Gorilla Tape covers it.
 
 
Here's a picture of the  steering column split in half to access the turn signals and the windscreen screws. The Red circles are screws that need to be removed to take off the windscreen. Look closely at the Yellow circles and you'll see how the halves match up and lock together. That is where you need to gently pry at the split the case. There are two more on  each side of the handle bar and you'll find them quite easily since you now know they're there. You'll have to remove the mirrors and the slug-eyestalks first.
Here is a picture of the tools and such that I carry in the under seat trunk. If you look in the middle, you can see the shock adjuster tool shaped like a "C." I don't have to use a ratchet on it and can do it by hand. These three zippered "owners manual cases almost fill up the trunk. I'm about to add a fourth one too with more parts and tools.

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